aces
very flat, no movement or wriggling being perceptible when placed
together, or there may be in very good work a slight kind of suction
by the air being driven out from between them. The work will be then
ready for glueing. The wood should be quite warm, the glue fresh and
strong. A few seconds or so may be well spent in brushing or working
the glue into the pores of the two surfaces to be opposed. If they are
as perfect, or true as possible, a little rubbing together will be
sufficient for an effectual and lasting junction without the use of
cramps; but if there is any doubt on the subject, then the process
described previously for joining the parts together after fracture had
better be gone through.

When the whole is thoroughly dried and the glue which has exuded from
between the opposing surfaces has been cut or chipped away, the gouging
of the grooves down the back may be commenced, care being taken to
follow the lines from the scroll downwards and gradually finishing
backwards and forwards according to the grain. Different sized gouges
will, of course, be required for this work, according to the fashion
or type of the violin. A glass papering of the parts will complete the
matter so far as the exterior is concerned. Some restorers might
recommend the glueing on of the scroll to be proceeded with earlier,
or before the block has been finally reduced and cut to shape. There
is not very much preference one way or the other; in the one above
detailed we avoid the risk of fresh damage to the scroll while sawing
and cutting, the rough or more violent tooling being done before the
junction is effected. It would be as well to let the new wood be of
full measurement to allow of fining down the new surface to meet that
of the old, which may possibly have some lustrous varnish upon it, and
which every good restorer would do his utmost to preserve. After this
is all satisfactorily done, the lines may be traced which are to act
as guides for the hollowing of the peg-box.

For this purpose a rather small chisel of the kind known among cabinet
makers as a mortising chisel will be required. Gently and by degrees
the mass of superfluous maple will have to be removed. It must be borne
in mind that maple or other tough wood will not bear the forcing that
a piece of pine will. A hard-wood workman is essentially a man of
degrees, the tougher the wood the less must be shaved off at a stroke.
The strong, massive form of the mortis