ocket, but you will require larger sizes for certain uses). Into
this bottle put from an ounce to an ounce and a half of pure cyanide
of potassium, in lumps, not pounded (a deadly poison), which you will
completely cover with a layer of plaster of Paris, mixed to the
consistence of paste. The bottle may be corked, have a screw top, or
glass stopper, according to your fancy. A glass stopper is, of course,
the safest to confine the deadly vapour given off, but in point of
convenience, and especially for outdoor work, nothing can surpass a
well-fitting cork--rising sufficiently high above the mouth of the
bottle to afford a good grip. As the plaster is setting it should be
well shaken down to insure an even surface, and afterwards a piece of
wool or blotting-paper should be put into the bottle to absorb any
superfluous moisture. In the course of a day, the plaster will be dry
and ready for use. [Footnote: A piece or pieces of blotting-paper cut
to fit will be found very handy to introduce into the bottle from time
to time to absorb all moisture, and to keep the specimens themselves
mean and dry.]

Fig. 45--The "Hill sliding net" ready for use.

Fig. 46--"Sugaring" net.

The insect being captured, you twist your net rapidly over to get it
as near to the bottom as possible--a very necessary precaution in the
case of a swift-flying or excitable insect. Holding the net now in the
left hand, take the bottle, previously uncorked, in your right hand
and slip it into the net and over the insect. In case of refractory
insects, blowing from the outside will sometimes make them go to the
bottom of the bottle. When this happens, you can slip your hand from
the outside over the mouth of the bottle, and hold it there until the
insect is corked up. In less than a minute it is stupefied and
motionless. If taken out, however, it will revive; it must be left in,
therefore, from ten to fifteen minutes. In the case of female insects
which have not yet deposited their eggs, and are consequently
exceedingly tenacious of life, a longer time will be found necessary.

Bruised laurel leaves, chloroform, benzol, etc, are recommended by some
authors. The first is, I think, uncertain in its effects, and has,
perhaps, a tendency to make the insects go ultimately mouldy. The
second stiffens the wing rays of some insects to such an extent as to
render them difficult to set. It has been recommended in the case of
large insects, such as the hawk moths,