delightful
retreat, where we dined: the Arabs killed two sheep; one they
roasted whole on a wooden spit, made on the spot; the other they
64 baked whole in an oven made for the purpose, in the following
manner: A large hole was dug in the ground; the inside was
plaistered with clay; after which they put fire in the hole till
the sides were dry; they then put the sheep in, and the top was
covered by clay in the form of an arch, fashioned and constructed
by the hand only; they afterwards made a large trough round this
temporary oven, and filled it with wood, to which they set fire.
The sheep was about three hours preparing in this manner, and it
was of exquisite flavour; the roasted mutton also was equally well
flavoured. No vegetables were served with this repast; for I had
desired that the fare should be precisely according to their own
custom; I therefore declined interfering with the arrangement of
the food. This mode of cooking is in high estimation with
travellers. These people never eat vegetables with their meat. When
they see Europeans eat a mouthful of meat, and then another of
vegetables, they express their surprise, observing that the taste
of the vegetables destroys the taste of the meat; and _vice versa_,
that the taste of the meat destroys the flavour of the vegetables!

The town of Santa Cruz, built on the summit of a branch of the
Atlas, by the Portuguese, is enclosed by a strong wall, fortified
with bastions mounting cannon; it is about a mile in circumference.
Half way down the mountain, on the western declivity, opposite the
sea, stands a battery, which defends the town, towards the north,
65 south, and west, at the foot of the mountain. Westward, on the
shore of the sea, stands a town, called by the Shelluhs, (the
natives of this country,) Agurem. There is a copious spring of
excellent water at Agurem, built and ornamented by the Portuguese,
when they had possession of this country, and called by them
_Fonte_, which name the town still retains, and is so called by
Europeans. The royal arms of Portugal are seen, carved in stone,
over the tank. Santa Cruz is supplied with spring-water from here,
having none but rain-water in the town, which is collected in the
rainy season, and preserved in subterraneous apartments, called
mitferes