r a few moments only, as we made our way through the crowd
at this point. I have since wondered where all these goufas were going.
They could not have intended to cross the river under present
conditions. I think the rapidly rising river must have upset all
calculations as to mooring boats at this point and their owners were
making sure that they were secure. The noise and apparent excitement was
probably nothing but the usual Eastern custom of making a great fuss
about nothing.

[Illustration: MAHAILAS AND MARSH ARAB'S BELLAM]

At last, after much marching and counter-marching, we struck the main
thoroughfare leading to the Maude bridge, which we crossed. The thick,
seething waters foamed and struggled against the pontoons and swept down
between them like roaring devils. We were very glad to get over, for it
looked as though a little more force would have carried the whole thing
away. Once clear of the bridge we found ourselves in New Street, the
thoroughfare made since the British occupation, and incidentally we ran
into a cheery naval officer who picked us up and deposited us again at
Navy House, whither he was bound. Had we not received this timely aid I
think we should have gone on looking for Navy House all night. A more
amazing situation for it could not have been found, if you searched the
world over.

Wedged in, cheek by jowl, with buildings that might have figured in the
tall streets of old London, it lay nowhere near the water, down a very
narrow and crooked lane, where mules and men, camels and beggars jostled
each other on their lawful occasions.

When we had settled down there and had fine weather for several days,
Brown, loath to waste the romance of old Baghdad during glorious
moonlight nights, insisted on some mysterious expeditions which were for
the purpose of adventure, but ostensibly arranged to give me an
opportunity of sketching. He produced an Arab, arrayed in strange
garments, to carry a light and generally act as a guide. We called him
the slave of the lamp. I am quite certain that he thought Brown was
mad, but this belief on the whole was rather an advantage, as he treated
him with all the more respect because of his affliction, which he
regarded as a special visitation of Allah.

[Illustration: "By garden porches on the brim,
The costly doors flung open wide."]

[Illustration: "All round about the fragrant marge,
From fluted vase and brazen urn,