Constantinople, or at Shepheard's hotel in
Cairo--places of historic interest almost, through the vivid
descriptions of travelers like the authors of _Eothen_ and _The
Crescent and the Cross_--a most motley medley of Western nationalities
may be encountered, the adventurers, tourists and wanderers of the
world congregated there during the winter months, and presenting a
panoramic view of all the peculiar phases and contrasts of European
civilization, more antagonistic there than elsewhere. There you see
the German savant with his round spectacles, round face and round
figure; the lean and restless Frenchman; the imperturbable Englishman,
drinking his bottled beer under the shadow of the Pyramids; and the
angular American, more curious, but more cosmopolite, than any of
them. The returning Englishman or Englishwoman who has spent twenty
years in India also presents an anomalous type, proving how climate
and mode of life may alter the original; for it is curious to contrast
the round, rosy faces of the fresh English girls outward bound with
the sharp, sallow faces and flashing, restless eyes which
characterize those who are returning. The babel of tongues at these
_tables-d'hote_, where conversations are being carried on in every
European language, is most perplexing at first, though French and
English predominate. Altogether, for the student of character there
is no better field than one of these European hotels in the East--none
where the lines of difference can be found more sharply defined;
for travel and contact with strangers appear only to bring out the
contrasts more clearly, and produce a more direct antagonism, instead
of softening down or assimilating them, as one might expect.

Very few travelers see the city khans--fewer still ever venture to
pass a night within their walls. Even on the routes of desert-travel
the pilgrims for pleasure avoid them, substituting their own tents
for the stone walls, and confiding in the arrangements made by their
dragomen or guides, who contract to make the necessary provision for
all their wants for a stipulated sum--one-half usually in advance,
the balance payable at the expiration of the trip. To do these men
justice, as a rule they provide liberally and well in all respects,
their reputation and recommendations being their capital and stock in
trade for securing subsequent tourists. Yet it cannot be doubted that
this system has robbed the Eastern tour of some of its most sa