t refreshing
sight to one for a year accustomed to the general dowdiness which in
this respect prevails in England. Most of the English girls seem to
have no idea that their feet should be dressed. The Viennese lady is
very tasteful. She is neither slipshod nor gaudy. I never beheld more
dainty toilettes. Everything about them, as a sailor would say, is cut
"by the lifts and braces."

Vienna abounds in great bath-houses. I have tested one. I wandered
about the establishment asking every one I met for a warm bath. Some
pointed in one direction, some in another, and after blundering
back and forth for a while, I found myself before a woman. For fifty
kreutzers she gave me a ticket. Then she called for Marie. Marie, a
black-eyed, bright German girl, came. She went to a shelf and burdened
herself with a quantity of linen. Then she signed for me to follow.
I did so in an expectant, wondering and rather anxious frame of mind.
Marie showed me into a neatly-furnished bath-room. She spread a linen
sheet in the tub, and turned on the water. I waited for the tub to
fill and Marie to depart. Marie seemed in no hurry. I pondered over
the possibilities involved in a German "Warm-bad." Perhaps Marie will
attempt to scrub me! Never! At last she goes. I remove my collar.
Suddenly Marie returns: it is to bring another towel. There is no
lock on the door--nothing with which to defend one's self. I bathe
in peace, however. On emerging I examine the pile of linen Marie has
left. There is a small towel, and two large aprons without strings,
long enough to reach from the shoulders to the knees. I study over
their possible use. I conclude they are to dry the anatomy with. On
subsequent inquiry I ascertained that they were to be worn while I
rang the bell and Marie came in to substitute hot water for cold.

The American commission to the exhibition occupies a bare,
disconsolate, shabby suite of rooms. They resemble much the editorial
offices of those ephemeral daily papers which, commencing with
very small capital, after a spasmodic career of a few months fall
despairingly into the arms of the sheriff. I had once occasion to
visit the commission on a little matter of business. What that was I
have forgotten: I recollect only the multiplicity of doors in those
apartments. When I turned to depart, I opened every door but the
proper one. I went into closets, private apartments and intricate
passages, and after making the entire round without dis