beans, apricots, cracked wheat, raisins,
etc.--all mixed in cold water. Bairam is the period of feasting after the
Ramadan fast.

[Illustration: EATING KAISERICHEN (EKMEK) OR BREAD.]

On preparing to leave Kirshehr after our frugal breakfast we found that
Turkish curiosity had extended even to the contents of our baggage, which
fitted in the frames of the machines. There was nothing missing, however:
and we did not lose so much as a button during our sojourn among them.
Thieving is not one of their faults, but they take much latitude in
helping themselves. Many a time an inn-keeper would "help us out" by
disposing of one third of a chicken that we had paid him a high price to
prepare.

When we were ready to start the chief of police cleared a riding space
through the streets, which for an hour had been filled with people. As we
passed among them they shouted "Oorooglar olsun" ("May good fortune attend
you"). "Inshallah" ("If it please God"), we replied, and waved our helmets
in acknowledgment.

[Illustration: GRINDING WHEAT.]

[Illustration: A TURKISH (HAMAAL) OR CARRIER.]

At the village of Topakle, on the following night, our reception was not
so innocent and good-natured. It was already dusk when we reached the
outskirts of the village, where we were at once spied by a young man who
was driving in the lowing herd. The alarm was given, and the people
swarmed like so many rats from a corn-bin. We could see from their costume
and features that they were not pure-blooded Turks. We asked if we could
get food and lodging, to which they replied, "Evet, evet" ("Yes, yes"),
but when we asked them where, they simply pointed ahead, and shouted,
"Bin, bin!" We did not "bin" this time, because it was too dark, and the
streets were bad. We walked, or rather were pushed along by the impatient
rabble, and almost deafened by their shouts of "Bin, bin!" At the end of
the village we repeated our question of where. Again they pointed ahead,
and shouted, "Bin!" Finally an old man led us to what seemed to be a
private residence, where we had to drag our bicycles up a dark narrow
stairway to the second story. The crowd soon filled the room to
suffocation, and were not disposed to heed our request to be left alone.
One stalwart youth showed such a spirit of opposition that we were obliged
to eject him upon a crowded stairway, causing the mob to go down like a
row of tenpins. Then the owner of the house came in, and in an agitat