ousands in
depth, indicates that northwest-southeast line along which the volcanic
forces of Ararat have acted most powerfully. This fissure is perhaps the
greatest with which the mountain is seamed, and out of which has
undoubtedly been discharged a great portion of its lava. Starting from the
base of the dome, it seemed to pierce the shifting clouds to a point about
500 feet from the summit. This line is continued out into the plain in a
series of small volcanoes the craters of which appear to be as perfect as
though they had been in activity only yesterday. The solid red and yellow
rocks which lined the sides of the great chasm projected above the
opposite brink in jagged and appalling cliffs. The whole was incased in a
mass of huge fantastic icicles, which, glittering in the sunlight, gave it
the appearance of a natural crystal palace. No more fitting place than
this could the fancy of the Kurds depict for the home of the terrible
jinn; no better symbol of nature for the awful jaws of death.
Our companion now awoke considerably refreshed, and the ascent was
continued close to the chasm's brink. Here were the only rocks to be seen
in the vast snow-bed around us. Cautiously we proceed, with cat-like
tread, following directly in one another's footsteps, and holding on to
our alpenstocks like grim death. A loosened rock would start at first
slowly, gain momentum, and fairly fly. Striking against some projecting
ledge, it would bound a hundred feet or more into the air, and then drop
out of sight among the clouds below. Every few moments we would stop to
rest; our knees were like lead, and the high altitude made breathing
difficult. Now the trail of rocks led us within two feet of the chasm's
edge; we approached it cautiously, probing well for a rock foundation, and
gazing with dizzy heads into the abyss.
The slope became steeper and steeper, until it abutted in an almost
precipitous cliff coated with snow and glistening ice. There was no escape
from it, for all around the snow-beds were too steep and slippery to
venture an ascent upon them. Cutting steps with our ice-picks, and
half-crawling, half-dragging ourselves, with the alpenstocks hooked into
the rocks above, we scaled its height, and advanced to the next abutment.
Now a cloud, as warm as exhausted steam, enveloped us in the midst of this
ice and snow. When it cleared away, the sun was reflected with intenser
brightness. Our faces were already smarting with bli
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