r, is one of the
finest points of that finest of fine arts, Chinese etiquette; and yet in
the midst of such an abundance and variety we were hopelessly at sea.
Fruits and teas were brought, together with meats and chickens, and even a
live sheep. Our Chinese visiting-cards--with the Chinese the great insignia
of rank--were now returned for those sent with the presents, and the hour
appointed for the exhibition of our bicycles as requested.

[Illustration: MONUMENT TO A PRIEST AT URUMTSI.]

Long before the time, the streets and housetops leading from the inn to
the viceroy's palace at the far end of the city began to fill with people,
and soldiers were detailed at our request to make an opening for us to
ride through abreast. This, however, did not prevent the crowd from
pushing us against each other, or sticking sticks in the wheels, or
throwing their hats and shoes in front of us, as we rode by. When in sight
of the viceroy's palace, they closed in on us entirely. It was the worst
jam we had ever been in. By no possibility could we mount our machines,
although the mob was growing more and more impatient. They kept shouting
for us to ride, but would give us no room. Those on the outside pushed the
inner ones against us. With the greatest difficulty could we preserve our
equilibrium, and prevent the wheels from being crushed, as we surged along
toward the palace gate; while all the time our Russian interpreter, Mafoo,
on horseback in front, continued to shout and gesticulate in the wildest
manner above their heads. Twenty soldiers had been stationed at the palace
gate to keep back the mob with cudgels. When we reached them, they pulled
us and our wheels quickly through into the inclosure, and then tried to
stem the tide by belaboring the heads and shoulders in reach, including
those of our unfortunate interpreter, Mafoo. But it was no use. Everything
was swept away before this surging wave of humanity. The viceroy himself,
who now came out to receive us, was powerless. All he could do was to
request them to make room around the palace courtyard for the coming
exhibition. Thousands of thumbs were uplifted that afternoon, in praise of
the wonderful _twee-tah-cheh_, or two-wheeled carts, as they witnessed our
modest attempt at trick riding and special manoeuvering. After refreshments
in the palace, to which we were invited by the viceroy, we were counseled
to leave by a rear door, and return by a roundabout way to the inn,