stinguished textless books of costume
plates.--Period of fashions in costumes developing
without nationality.--Nationality declared
in artistry of workmanship and the modification
or exaggeration of an essential detail according
to national or individual temperament.--Evolution
of woman's costume.--Assyria.--Egypt.--Byzantium.--
Greece.--Rome.--Gothic Europe.--Europe of the
Renaissance,--seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth
century through Mid-Victorian period.--Cord tied about
waist origin of costumes for women and men

XV THE STORY OF PERIOD COSTUMES 172

A RESUME.

Woman as seen in Egyptian sculpture-relief;
on Greek vase; in Gothic stained glass; carved
stone; tapestry; stucco; and painting of the
Renaissance; eighteenth and nineteenth century
portraits.--Art throughout the ages reflects
woman in every role; as companion, ruler,
slave, saint, plaything, teacher, and voluntary
worker.--Evolution of outline of woman's costume,
including change in neck; shoulder;
evolution of sleeve; girdle; hair; head-dress;
waist line; petticoat.--Gradual disappearance
of long, flowing lines characteristic of Greek
and Gothic periods.--Demoralisation of Nature's
shoulder and hip-line culminates in the Velasquez
edition of Spanish fashion and the Marie
Antoinette extravaganzas

XVI DEVELOPMENT OF GOTHIC COSTUME 192

Gothic outline first seen as early as fourth
century.--Costume of Roman-Christian women.--Ninth
century.--The Gothic cape of twelfth,
thirteenth and fourteenth centuries made
familiar on the Virgin and saints in sacred
art.--The tunic.--Restraint in line, colour, and
detail gradually disappear with increased circulation
of wealth until in fifteenth century we
see humanity over-weighted with rich brocades,
laces, massive jewels, etc.

THE VIRGIN IN ART

Late Middle Ages.--Sovereignty of the Virgin
as explained in "The Cathedrals of Mont St.
Michel and Chartres," by Henry Adams.--Woman
as the Virgin dominates art of twelfth,
thirteenth, and fourteenth centuries.--The girdle.--The
round neck.--The necklace, etc.

XVII THE RENAISSANCE 214

SIXTEENTH AND SEVENTEENTH CENTURIES

Pointed and other head-dresses with floating
veils.--Neck low off shoulders.--Skirts part as
waist-l