ine over petticoat.--Wealth of Roman
Empire through new trade channels had led to
importation of richly coloured Oriental stuffs.--Same
wealth led to establishing looms in
Europe.--Clothes of man like his over-ornate
furniture show debauched and vulgar taste.--The
good Gothic lines live on in costumes of
nuns and priests.--The Davanzati Palace collection,
Florence, Italy.--Long pointed shoes
of the Middle Ages give way to broad square
ones.--Gorgeous materials.--Hats.--Hair.--Sleeves.--
Skirts.--Crinolines.--Coats.--Overskirts
draped to develop into panniers of Marie
Antoinette's time.--Directoire reaction to simple
lines and materials

XVII EIGHTEENTH CENTURY 233

Political upheavals.--Scientific discoveries.--Mechanical
inventions.--Chemical achievements.--Chintz
or stamped linens of Jouy near Versailles.--Painted
wall-papers after the Chinese.--Simplicity
in costuming of woman and man

XIX WOMAN IN THE VICTORIAN PERIOD 241

First seventy years of nineteenth century.--"Historic
Dress in America" by Elizabeth McClellan.--Hoops,
wigs, absurdly furbished head-dresses,
paper-soled shoes, bonnets enormous,
laces of cobweb, shawls from India, rouge and
hair-grease, patches and powder, laced waists,
and "vapours."--Man still decorative

XX SEX IN COSTUMING 244

"European dress."--Progenitor of costume
worn by modern men.--The time when no distinction
was made between materials used for
man and woman.--Velvets, silks, satins, laces,
elaborate cuffs and collars, embroidery, jewels
and plumes as much his as hers

XXI LINE AND COLOUR OF COSTUMES IN HUNGARY 252

In a sense colour a sign of virility.--Examples.--Studying
line and colour in Magyar
Land.--In Krakau, Poland,--A highly decorative
Polish peasant and her setting

XXII STUDYING LINE AND COLOUR IN RUSSIA 265

Kiev our headquarters.--Slav temperament
an integral part of Russian nature expressed
in costuming as well as folk songs and dances
of the people.--Russian woman of the fashionable
world.--The Russian pilgrims as we saw
them tramping over the frozen roads to the
shrines of Kiev, the Holy City and ancient
capital of Russia at the close of the Lenten
season.--Their costume