But what a contrast to
the calm, unconscious, and insipid mummery which went on at the moment
through the whole room! Her prayer was short, and she had neither book
nor beads; but the heavings of her bosom, and her suppressed sobs,
sufficiently proclaimed her sincerity. Her petition, indeed, seemed to
go to heaven from a broken heart. When it was finished, she remained a
few moments on her knees, and dried her eyes with her handkerchief. As
she rose up, I could mark the modest, timid glance, and the slight
blush as she presented herself again amongst the company, where all were
strangers. I thought she appeared, though in the midst of such a number,
to be woefully and pitiably alone.

As for my own companion, she absolutely made the grand tour of all the
praying knots on the promises, having taken a very tolerable bout with
each. There were two qualities in which she shone preeminent--voice and
distinctness; for she gave by far the loudest and most monotonous chant.
Her visage also was remarkable, for her complexion resembled the dark,
dingy red of a winter apple. She had a pair of very piercing black eyes,
with which, while kneeling with her body thrown back upon her heels as
if they were a cushion, she scrutinized, at her ease, every one in the
room, rocking herself gently from side to side. The poor creature paid
a marked attention to the interesting young woman I have just mentioned.
At last, they dropped off one by one to bed, that they might be up early
the next morning for the Lough, with the exception of some half-dozen,
more long-winded than the rest whose voices I could hear at their sixth
rosary, in the rapid elevated tone peculiar to Catholic devotion, until
I fell asleep.

The next morning, when I awoke, I joined with all haste the aggregate
crowd that proceeded in masses towards the lake--or Purgatory--which
lies amongst the hills that extend to the north-east of Petigo. While
ascending the bleak, hideous mountain range, whose ridge commands a full
view of this celebrated scene of superstition, the manner and appearance
of the pilgrims were deeply interesting. Such groupings as pressed
forward around me would have made line studies either for him who wished
to deplore or to ridicule the degradations and absurdities of human
nature; indeed there was an intense interest in the scene. I look
back at this moment with awe towards the tremulous and high-strained
vibrations of my mind, as it responded to the exc