rooms, bedrooms, the plain, narrow
bedstead the Emperor sleeps upon, the great workshop, in which are
maps and all sorts of material for studying and planning how to
hold and gain empires. I even peered into the kitchen and saw the
pitchers, plates, coffee-pots and stew-pans. It was my first chance
of a real mortal living look of things, so I enjoyed it hugely.
There are rooms enough in these palaces for an army of people. All
of these magnificent displays of wealth in churches, palaces and
castles, citadels, fortifications and glittering military shows of
monarchial governments, only make more conspicuous the poverty,
ignorance and degradation of the masses; and all pleasure in seeing
them is tinged with sadness.

From the diary for May:

12.--Showering, but I walked up the mountain to pay a last visit to
Heidelberg Castle, the most magnificent ruin in Germany. Its
ivy-covered towers always will be pictured in my memory.

13.--At Strasburg. We have driven over the city, looked at the
wonderful fortifications and explored the great cathedral with its
famous clock. We heard the grand organ and saw 250 priests conduct
the services before an audience of 2,000 people, nine-tenths women.
Then to St. Thomas' church and the monument to Marshal Saxe.

14.--Left for Paris and had a beautiful ride through Alsace and
Lorraine, the lost kingdoms of France. It made me sad all day; I
wanted them returned to their own mother country. Theodore Stanton
and his wife Marguerite met us at the station.

15.--Madam de Barron has invited me to be her guest while here.
Such a delightful home and intelligent hostess! I have a charming
room, and this morning the sun is shining bright and warm and the
robins are singing in the trees. My continental breakfast--rolls,
butter and coffee--was sent to my room and, for the first time in
my life, I ate it in bed. What would my mother have said?

16.--Went to grand opera last night; magnificent house, scenery,
toilets, equipages; but with my three "lacks," a musical ear, a
knowledge of French and good eyesight, I could not properly
appreciate the performance.

17.--Theodore took me to the Chamber of Deputies to see how
Frenchmen look in legislative assembly--very like Americans. Then
we called on friends at the American