red at
Cologne in the fifth century. Whole broadsides of chapels are lined
with shelves of skulls, which the noble ladies of the twelfth
century partly covered with embroidery. Wednesday we took steamer
up the Rhine at six in the morning and landed at Mayence at eight.
It was a beautiful panorama, but not surpassing all others I have
seen. The vine-clad hillsides, the ruins of the old castles
(nothing like as many of them as I had thought) and the winding of
the river were all very lovely. We visited the cathedral, the
monuments of Gutenberg and Schiller, and then the fortress and the
remains of a Roman monument erected nine years before Christ....

HEIDELBERG, May 11.

DEAR BROTHER D. R.: As I clambered among the ruins of Heidelberg
Castle today, I wished for each of my loved ones to come across old
ocean and look upon the remains of ancient civilization--of art and
architecture, bigotry and barbarism. I am enjoying my "flying,"
though I would not again make such a rush, but I am getting a good
relish for a more deliberate tour at some later day. All of life
should not be given to one's work at home, whether that be woman
suffrage, journalism or government affairs.

After being perpetually among people whose language I could not
understand, it was doubly grateful to be in the midst of not only
my countrymen but my dearest friends, and I enjoyed their society
so much that I almost forgot there were any wonders to be seen in
Berlin. But we did make an excursion to Potsdam--a jolly company of
us, Mr. and Mrs. Sargent and their gifted daughter Ella, also the
professor of Greek in your Kansas State University, Miss Kate
Stephens. She interpreted the utterances of the ever-present
guides, whose jabber was worse than Greek.

At Potsdam we were shown the very rooms in which Frederick the
Great lived and moved and had his being, plotted and planned to
conquer his neighbors. In the little church are myriads of tattered
flags, taken in their many wars, and two great stone caskets in
which repose the bodies of Frederick the Great and his father,
Frederick William, peaceful in death, however warlike in life. We
also visited the new palace where the present Emperor spends the
summer. We saw parlors, dining-