machine is not at hand to use for the long seams, the
limited time may make the simpler apron necessary. This
will give more time for the various steps. Lessons XIV and
XV may then be omitted, Lesson XVI made more simple, and
less outside work may be required.

METHOD OF WORK

As soon as the class meets, the pupils should take the measurements for
their aprons. One measurement should be assigned at a time, and the
reason for each measurement should be given. The pupils should have
explicit directions as to the measurements, as they are apt to become
confused if the directions are not clear. They should work carefully, so
that the material does not become crumpled or soiled and, at the
conclusion of the lesson, they should fold it carefully and put it away
neatly. All threads and scraps of material should be carefully picked
off the floor and the desks, and the room left in order.

LESSON XII: APRONS OR UNDERGARMENTS--Continued

_Basting the hem for hemming on the machine or by hand. Uneven basting._

SUBJECT-MATTER

An uneven basting forms the better guide for stitching. In uneven
basting, the spaces are made about three times as long as the stitches.
The stitch should be about one eighth of an inch and the space three
eighths of an inch.

PRELIMINARY PLAN

In addition to the apron material which has been cut out in the previous
lesson, each pupil should provide her own spool of thread (number sixty
white thread will probably answer for all the work), a piece of
cardboard 5 inches wide for a gauge, and pins to use in fastening the
hem.

[Illustration: _Fig._ 14.--Uneven basting]

METHOD OF WORK

As soon as the class meets, the pupils should prepare a 5-inch gauge, to
guide them in turning the hems of the skirts of their aprons. They
should make a half-inch notch in the measure for the first turn in the
material. A half-inch edge should be turned up from the bottom of the
skirt, then a 5-inch hem should be turned, pinned, and basted carefully
with uneven basting. The gauge should be used for both measurements.

LESSON XIII: APRONS OR UNDERGARMENTS--Continued

_Gathering the skirt and stitching to the belt._

SUBJECT-MATTER

In gathering, a stitch much like running is employed. Small stitches are
taken up on the needle, with spaces twice as great between them. The top
of the skirt should be divided into halves, and each half gathered with
a long thread, fine stitch