fancy myself in
the interior of Congo. Numerous insects, that flew with a droning noise
about me, and a multitude of adders basking in the sun, or hurrying
through the grass as I approached, gave new force to the illusion.

In the afternoon R---- and P---- caught thirty or forty salmon between
them. Such success made them determine to remain for some days longer at
Boom; but being desirous of a change of scene, as well as recreation, I
returned to the yacht, and sleeping on board that night, went the next
morning to Christiansand.

It was the 24th of June, known as St. John's Day; and on my arrival at
Christiansand, I learned that the festival was commemorated with great
ceremony by the Norwegians. Along the tops of the mountains, ever where
the eye wandered, piles of faggots, and old boats were collected
together, like funeral pyres. Men and women, children and dogs,
congregated in multitudes around them, watching for the set of sun; and
when the weary god sank down to rest, and with closing lids gave
darkness to the earth, a hundred bonfires simultaneously blazing forth
on the summits of the mountains, strove to reach his throne in the
meridian, and imitate the day. The sight was certainly fine, but could
not be compared with an ancient warlike and similar custom among the
Scottish Highlanders.

I called on some ladies and gentlemen whom I knew at Christiansand, and
learned a usage prevalent among the Norwegians, that should still more
endear their simplicity of heart, and the truthfulness of their
character, since it is void of all the artfulness and social fiction of
England. Approaching the house of a family, from the different members
of which we had received much kindness and hospitality, a servant met me
at the door, and while she was endeavouring to explain how much her
mistress was engaged, the eldest daughter of my fair hostess made her
appearance, and extending her hand to me, said, shaking her head,

"Herr, kan icca ta imod;" which meant, that I could not be received.
This is the usual phrase; and it tells you the simple fact, that the
lady of the house is at home, but her domestic occupations press upon
her so much at the moment, that she is unable to receive you.

CHAPTER XV.

SAILING UP THE GRON FIORD--DANGEROUS SWELL--EXCURSION
ASHORE--TROUT-FISHING--MOUNTAIN SCENERY--ANT-HILLS--
HAZARDOUS DRIVE--THE SCOTTISH EMIGRANT--MISERABLE
LODGING--CONDITION OF THE PEASANTRY--A VILLAGE
PATRIARCH