try, I believe that
the milk, from the moment that it is drawn from the cow is placed in
these deal basins, whence the cream is skimmed and committed to a
separate bowl, where it remains till it becomes sour, and after resting
undisturbed for a few days, thickens to a vile firm substance, the
natives call cheese. The Norwegians do not drink fresh milk, but use it,
even for household purposes, when quite sour; and plentiful as milk was,
we found much difficulty in procuring any, the most trifling quantity,
fit for our English tastes. We were so fortunate as to find one basin
that contained some fresh milk, of which we drank plentifully; but our
guide swallowed quart after quart of all the acid stuff he could smell
out; for he would not taste before he had applied his nose to each
basin.

There were only two apartments in this cottage, and both without floors,
or windows. In one corner of the dairy, which was not eight feet square,
a few planks of fir formed a bedstead over which were tumbled one or two
torn and dirty blankets. Three large stones, arranged angularly on the
dank earth, answered the purpose of a grate, for half burned sticks and
cinders were scattered about; and immediately over head, a large hole in
the roof admitted the rain and cold wind, while it might, and was
intended to let out the smoke. Poverty and discomfort seemed to wrestle
with each other which should torment these two girls the most. And yet
they looked glad and contented, and said they were so, and laughed
heartily at our discomposure when we went from pan to pan, and found
the milk sour, or half hardened to a jelly. They could hardly be
persuaded to receive any compensation for the milk we and the Norwegian
had consumed; and both of these girls shook hands with us, and thanked
us continually in grateful idioms for sixteen skillings, a sum of money
worth five pence sterling. They answered to the solicitous questions of
our guide, that a herd of three hundred rein-deer had passed through the
valley two days before, and believed they had gone towards a large lake
ten miles to the eastward.

The sun had now set, and no place of rest could be found among these
mountains, unless we chose to risk the danger of sleeping in the open
air under some tree. It was, therefore, necessary to delay as little as
possible, and we took leave of the two peasant girls. They came forward
with the most unaffected simplicity, and shaking us again by the hand,
wish