County, Tennessee.

We have a few pieces of this variety of fabric which have been preserved
by contact with the salts of copper. Professor Farquharson describes
an example from a mound on the banks of the Mississippi River, near
the city of Davenport. It had been wrapped about a copper implement
resembling a celt, and was at the time of its recovery in a very perfect
state of preservation. In describing this cloth Mr. Farquharson says
that
"the warp is composed of four cords, that is, of _two double and
twisted_ cords, and the woof of _one_ such doubled and twisted cord
which passes between the two parts of the warp; the latter being
twisted at each change, allowing the cords to be brought close
together so as to cover the woof almost entirely."
His illustration is somewhat erroneous, the artist not having had quite
a clear understanding of the combination of threads. This cloth has a
general resemblance to ordinary coffee-sacking. In Fig. 86 I give an
illustration of this fabric derived from the opposite side of the celt.

[Illustration: Fig. 86.--Fabric from a copper celt, Iowa.]

Although I am not quite positive, it is my opinion, after having
examined the specimen carefully, that the body of the cloth belongs
to my first group and that the border only is of the second group.
My section and drawing give a clear idea of the construction of this
fabric. A finely-preserved bit of cloth belonging to the group under
consideration was recently found fixed to the surface of a copper image
from one of the Etowah mounds in Georgia.

This form of weaving is very common among the productions of the modern
tribes of Western America. A very good example is shown in Fig. 87,
which represents the border of a cape like garment made by the Clyoquot
Indians, of Vancouver's Island. It is woven, apparently, of the fiber of
bark, both web and woof showing considerable diversity in the size of
the cords. The border has been strengthened by sewing in a broad, thin
fillet of rawhide.

[Illustration: Fig. 87.--Modern work, Vancouver's Island.]

The beautiful mats of the northwest coast peoples, from California to
Ounalaska, are often woven in this manner, the materials being bast,
grass, or rushes.

The Lake Dwellers of Switzerland seem to have made a great many
varieties of cloth of this type. I have reproduced four examples from
the great work of Dr. Keller. Fig. 88 is copied from his Fig. 1, Plate
CXXXV. It exhibit