Xcanchakan,
one of the three finest in Yucatan, and containing nearly seven hundred
souls. The plate opposite represents the front of this hacienda. The
house is perhaps one of the best in the country, and being within one
day's ride of the capital, and accessible by calesa, it is a favourite
residence of its venerable proprietor. The whole condition of the
hacienda showed that it was often subject to the master's eye, and the
character of that master may be judged of from the fact that his major
domo, the same who was attendant upon us, had been with him twenty-six
years.

I have given the reader some idea of a hacienda in Yucatan, with its
cattle-yard, its great tanks of water and other accessories. All these
were upon a large and substantial scale, equal to any we had seen; and
there was one little refinement in their arrangement, which, though
not, perhaps, intended for that purpose, could not fail to strike the
eye of a stranger. The passage to the well was across the corridor,
and, sitting quietly in the shade, the proprietor could see every day,
passing and repassing, all the women and girls belonging to the estate.

Our friend the cura of Tekoh was still with us, and the Indians of the
hacienda were within his curacy. Again immediately upon our arrival the
bell of the church was tolled to announce his arrival to the sick,
those who wished to confess, marry, or be baptized. This over, it
struck the solemn note of the _oracion_, or vesper prayers. All rose,
and, with uncovered heads stood silent till the last note died away,
all, according to the beautiful injunction of the Catholic Church,
breathing an inward prayer. Then they bade each other a _buenas
noches_, each kissed the cura's hand, and then, with his petata, or
straw hat, in his hand, came to us, bowing respectfully, and wishing
each of us also the good night.

The cura still considered us on his hands, and, in order to entertain
us, requested the major domo to get up a dance of the Indians. Very
soon we heard the sound of the violins and the Indian drum. This latter
consists of a hollow log about three feet long, with a piece of
parchment stretched over the end, on which an Indian, holding it under
his left arm, beats with his right hand. It is the same instrument
known to the inhabitants at the time of the conquest by the name of
_tunkul_ and is the favourite now. Going out into the back corridor, we
saw the musicians sitting at one end, before the d