along the edge of
which a path led in front of this building. Following this path, we
turned the corner of the terrace, and on the farthest side dismounted,
and tied our horses. The grass and weeds were above our heads, and we
could see nothing. The mayoral broke a way through them, and we reached
the foot of the terrace. Working our way over the stones with much
toil, we reached the top of the highest terrace. Here, too, the grass
and weeds were of the same rank growth. We moved directly to the wall
at the east end, and entered the first open door. Here the mayoral
wished us to take up our abode; but we knew the localities better than
he did, and, creeping along the front as close to the wall as possible,
cutting some of the bushes, and tearing apart and trampling down
others, we reached the centre apartment. Here we stopped. Swarms of
bats, roused by our approach, fluttered and flew through the long
chamber, and passed out at the doors.

The appearance of things was not very promising for a place of
residence. There were two salas, each sixty feet long; that in front
had three large doors, opening upon the encumbered terrace, and the
other had no windows and but one door. In both there was an extreme
sensation of closeness and dampness, with an unpleasant smell, and in
the back room was a large accumulation of dirt and rubbish. Outside,
high grass and weeds were growing into the very doorway. We could not
move a step, and all view was completely cut off. After the extreme
heat of the sun out of doors, we were in a profuse perspiration from
climbing up the terrace, and the dank atmosphere induced a feeling of
chilliness which made us reflect seriously upon what we had not
sufficiently regarded before.

Throughout Yucatan "el campo," or the country, is considered unhealthy
in the rainy season. We had arrived in Yucatan counting upon the
benefit of the whole dry season, which generally begins in November and
lasts till May; but this year the rains had continued longer than
usual, and they were not yet over. The proprietors of haciendas were
still cautious about visiting them, and confined themselves to the
villages and towns. Among all the haciendas, Uxmal had a reputation
pre-eminent for its unhealthiness. Every person who had ever been at
work among the ruins had been obliged by sickness to leave them. Mr.
Catherwood had had sad experience, and this unhealthiness was not
confined to strangers. The Indians suffered ev