maller fairs within
the Quarter.

[Illustration: (factory chimneys along empty street)]

And very small and unattractive little fairs they are, consisting of
half a dozen or more wagons, serving as a yearly abode for these
shiftless people; illumined at night by the glare of smoking oil
torches. There is, moreover, a dingy tent with a half-drawn red curtain
that hides the fortune-telling beauty; and a traveling shooting-gallery,
so short that the muzzle of one's rifle nearly rests upon the painted
lady with the sheet-iron breastbone, centered by a pinhead of a
bull's-eye which never rings. There is often a small carousel, too,
which is not only patronized by the children, but often by a crowd of
students--boys and girls, who literally turn the merry-go-round into a
circus, and who for the time are cheered to feats of bareback riding by
the enthusiastic bystanders.

These little Quarter fetes are far different from the great fete de
Neuilly across the Seine, which begins at the Porte Maillot, and
continues in a long, glittering avenue of side-shows, with mammoth
carousels, bizarre in looking-glass panels and golden figures. Within
the circle of all this throne-like gorgeousness, a horse-power organ
shakes the very ground with its clarion blasts, while pink and white
wooden pigs, their tails tied up in bows of colored ribbons, heave and
swoop round and round, their backs loaded with screaming girls and
shouting men.

It was near this very same Port Maillot, in a colossal theater, built
originally for the representation of one of the Kiralfy ballets, that a
fellow student and myself went over from the Quarter one night to "supe"
in a spectacular and melodramatic pantomime, entitled "Afrique a Paris."
We were invited by the sole proprietor and manager of the show--an
old circus-man, and one of the shrewdest, most companionable, and
intelligent of men, who had traveled the world over. He spoke no
language but his own unadulterated American. This, with his dominant
personality, served him wherever fortune carried him!

So, accepting his invitation to play alternately the dying soldier and
the pursuing cannibal under the scorching rays of a tropical limelight,
and with an old pair of trousers and a flannel shirt wrapped in a
newspaper, we presented ourselves at the appointed hour, at the edge of
the hostile country.

[Illustration: (street scene)]

Here we found ourselves surrounded by a horde of savages who needed no