who have lived in and through it
know its full story.

[Illustration: THE MUSEE CLUNY]

Pochard has seen it; so has the little old woman who once danced at the
opera; so have old Bibi La Puree, and Alphonse, the gray-haired garcon,
and Mere Gaillard, the flower-woman. They have seen the gay boulevards
and the cafes and generations of grisettes, from the true grisette of
years gone by, in her dainty white cap and simple dress turned low at
the throat, to the tailor-made grisette of to-day.

Yet the eyes of the little old woman still dance; they have not grown
tired of this ever-changing kaleidoscope of human nature, this paradise
of the free, where many would rather struggle on half starved than live
a life of luxury elsewhere.

And the students are equally quixotic. I knew one once who lived in an
air-castle of his own building--a tall, serious fellow, a sculptor, who
always went tramping about in a robe resembling a monk's cowl, with his
bare feet incased in coarse sandals; only his art redeemed these
eccentricities, for he produced in steel and ivory the most exquisite
statuettes. One at the Salon was the sensation of the day--a knight in
full armor, scarcely half a foot in height, holding in his arms a nymph
in flesh-tinted ivory, whose gentle face, upturned, gazed sweetly into
the stern features behind the uplifted vizor; and all so exquisitely
carved, so alive, so human, that one could almost feel the tender heart
of this fair lady beating against the cold steel breastplate.

Another "bon garcon"--a painter whose enthusiasm for his art knew no
bounds--craved to produce a masterpiece. This dreamer could be seen
daily ferreting around the Quarter for a studio always bigger than the
one he had. At last he found one that exactly fitted the requirements of
his vivid imagination--a studio with a ceiling thirty feet high, with
windows like the scenic ones next to the stage entrances of the
theaters. Here at last he could give full play to his brush--no subject
seemed too big for him to tackle; he would move in a canvas as big as a
back flat to a third act, and commence on a "Fall of Babylon" or a
"Carnage of Rome" with a nerve that was sublime! The choking dust of the
arena--the insatiable fury of the tigers--the cowering of hundreds of
unfortunate captives--and the cruel multitude above, seated in the vast
circle of the hippodrome--all these did not daunt his zeal.

Once he persuaded a venerable old abbe to pose f