matter
of fact, the stitch properly so called was never very commonly employed,
even when the work was done in "crewel," the double thread of twisted
wool from which it takes its name.

[Illustration: THE WORKING OF A ON CREWEL-STITCH SAMPLER.]

[Illustration: 11. CREWEL-STITCH SAMPLER.]

[Illustration: 12. CREWEL-STITCH SAMPLER (BACK).]

[Sidenote: TO WORK A.]

CREWEL-STITCH proper is shown at A on the sampler opposite, where it is
used for line work. It is worked as follows:--Having made a start in the
usual way, keep your thread downwards under your left thumb and below
your needle--that is, to the right; then take up with the needle, say
1/8th of an inch of the stuff, and bring it out through the hole made in
starting the stitch, taking care not to pierce the thread. This gives
the first half stitch. If you proceed in the same way your next stitch
will be full length. The test of good workmanship is that at the back it
should look like back-stitch (Illustration 12), described on page 30.

[Illustration: THE WORKING OF B ON CREWEL-STITCH SAMPLER.]

[Sidenote: TO WORK B.]

OUTLINE-STITCH (B on sampler) differs from crewel-stitch only in that
the thread is always kept upwards above the needle, that is to the left.
In so doing the thread is apt to untwist itself, and wants constantly
re-twisting. The stitch is useful for single lines and for outlining
solid work. The muddled effect of much crewel work is due to the
confusion of this stitch with crewel-stitch proper.

[Sidenote: TO WORK C.]

THICK CREWEL-STITCH (C on sampler) is only a little wider than ordinary
crewel-stitch, but gives a heavier line, in higher relief. In effect it
resembles rope-stitch, but it is more simply worked. You begin as in
ordinary crewel-stitch, but after the first half-stitch you take up
1/8th of an inch of the material in advance of the last stitch, and
bring out your needle at the point where the first half-stitch began.
You proceed, always putting your needle in 1/8th of an inch in front of,
and bringing it out 1/8th of an inch behind, the last stitch, so as to
have always 1/4th of an inch of the stuff on your needle.

[Illustration: THE WORKING OF G ON CREWEL-STITCH SAMPLER.]

[Sidenote: TO WORK D.]

THICK OUTLINE-STITCH (D on sampler) is like thick crewel-stitch with the
exception that, as in ordinary outline-stitch (B), you keep your thread
always above the needle to the left.

[Sidenote: TO WORK E.]

In BACK-STITCH