LACE OR SURFACE STITCH.]

Most delicate surface stitching occurs in Illustration 35, the fine
net being worked only from edge to edge of the spaces it fills, and not
elsewhere entering the stuff; which accounts for most of it being worn
away. The flower or scroll-work is _bona fide_ embroidery, worked
through the stuff. The delicate network of fine stitching, which once
covered the whole of the background, is for the most part neither more
nor less than a floating gossamer of lacework. One cannot deny that that
is embroidery, though it has to be said that _lace-stitches_ are
employed in it.

Stern embroiderers would like to deny it. Of course it is frivolous, and
in a sense flimsy, but it is also delicate and dainty to a degree. It is
suited only to dress, and that of the most exquisite kind. A French
marquise of the Regency might have worn it, and possibly did wear it,
with entire propriety--if the word is not out of keeping with the
period.

The frailty of this kind of thing is too obvious to need mention, and
that, of course, is a strong argument against it.

All attempt to give separate names to diapers of this kind, whether
worked upon the surface or into the stuff, is futile. They ought not
even to be called stitches, being, in fact, neither more nor less than
stitch patterns, to which there is no possible limit, unless it be the
limit of human invention. Every ingenious workwoman will find out
patterns of her own more or less. They are very useful for filling in
surfaces (pattern or background) which it may be inexpedient to work
more solidly.

The greater part of such patterns are geometric (Illustrations 35 and
73), following, that is to say, the mesh of the material, and making no
secret of it. On Illustration 3 you see very plainly how the rectangular
diaperings are built up geometrically on the square lines of the mesh,
as was practically inevitable working on such a ground. The relation of
stitch to stuff is here obvious.

The choice of stitch patterns of this kind is invariably left to the
needlewoman. The utmost a designer need do is to indicate on his drawing
that a "full," "open," or "intermediate" diaper is to be used. And the
alternation of lighter and heavier diapers should be planned, and not
left altogether to impulse, though the pattern may be. Moreover, there
is room for the exercise of considerable taste in the choice of simpler
or more elaborate patterns, freer or more geometric. Many a