ills that fence the
town to the landward. Under roofs of corrugated sheet-iron run the
sidewalks, along dark stores displaying unappetizing food, curios and
cheap millinery. At each corner is a dismal sailors' bar, smelling of
absinthe. Then we come to an empty, decayed square, where a crippled,
noseless "Gallia" stands on a fountain; some half-drunk coachmen
lounge dreaming on antediluvian cabs, and a few old convicts sprawl
on benches.

Along the hillside are the houses of the high officials and the better
class of people. There is a club, where fat officials gather to play
cards and drink absinthe and champagne; they go to the barber's, roll
cigarettes, drink some more absinthe and go to bed early, after having
visited a music-hall, in which monstrous dancing-girls from Sydney
display their charms and moving-picture shows present blood-curdling
dramas. Then there is the Governor's residence, the town hall, etc.,
and the only event in this quiet city of officials is the arrival of
the mail-steamer, when all the "beau-monde" gathers on the pier to
welcome the few passengers, whether known or unknown.

In Noumea itself there is no industry, and the great export of minerals
does not touch the town. Once, Noumea was meant to form a base of
naval operations, and strongly fortified. But after a few years
this idea was abandoned, after having cost large sums, and now the
fortifications are left to decay and the heavy, modern guns to rust.

In spite of a prohibition, one may climb up to the forts, and be
rewarded by a beautiful view of the island, which does not impress one
as tropical. The rounded hills are covered with shrubs, and only in the
valleys are there a few trees; we are surprised by the strong colouring
of the distant mountains, shining purple through the violet atmosphere.

Seaward, we see the white line of the breakers, indicating the great
barrier-reef which surrounds the isle with an almost impenetrable belt;
a few channels only lead from the shore to the open ocean.

On the 1st of May the Pacific arrived at Noumea, and her departure
for Vila, next day, ended a most tiresome stay.

It was a sad, rainy day when we left. Impatiently the passengers waited
till the freight was loaded,--houses, iron, horses, cases of tins,
etc. Of course we were six hours late, and all the whites were angry,
while the few natives did not care, but found a dry corner, rolled
themselves up in their blankets and dozed. When we f