eight of 150 m. There are level lands
at the mouth of the Sarrakatta River and on the tablelands.
The Sarrakatta is one of the sights of the New Hebrides, and a pull up
the narrow stream affords one of the most impressive views to be had
of tropical vegetation. The river cuts straight through the forest,
so that the boat moves between two high walls of leafy green. Silently
glides the stream, silently broods the forest, only the boat swishes
softly, and sometimes a frightened fish splashes up. Every bend we
round shows us new and surprisingly charming views: now we pass a
giant tree, which towers up king-like on its iron-hard trunk far
above the rest of the forest, trunk and limbs covered with a fine
lacework of tender-leaved lianas; now we sweep along a high bank,
under a bower of overhanging branches. The water caresses the tips
of the twigs, and through the leaves the sun pours golden into the
cool darkness. Again we glide into the light, and tangled shrubbery
seams the river bank, from which long green strands of vines trail
down and curl in the water like snakes. Knobby roots rise out of
the ground; they have caught floating trunks, across which the
water pours, lifting and dropping the wet grasses that grow on
the rotten stems. Farther up the bushes are entirely covered with
vines and creepers, whose large, thick leaves form a scaly coat of
mail under which the half-strangled trees seem to fight in vain for
air and freedom. In shallow places stiff bamboos sprout, their long
yellow leaves trembling nervously in an imperceptible breeze; again
we see trees hung with creepers as if wearing torn flags; and once
in a while we catch sight of that most charming of tropical trees,
the tree-fern, with its lovely star-shaped crown, like a beautiful,
dainty work of art in the midst of the uncultivated wilderness. As
if in a dream we row back down stream, and like dream-pictures all
the various green shapes of the forest sweep by and disappear.
The Resident introduced me to the French planters, Mr. and Mrs. Ch.,
and asked them to take me in, which they agreed to do. Having rented
an old plantation from the French company, they had had the good
fortune to find a regular frame house ready for them.
After I had moved into my quarters the Resident returned to Vila,
and I remained on the borders of the wilderness. What followed now
was a most unsatisfactory time of waiting, the first of many similar
periods. Having no servant
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