f Hungary. They
were fugitives in the old days from Russia, to whom they are intensely
antagonistic, having probably suffered from her persecutions. In
religion they are dissenters from the orthodox Greek Church,
assimilating more with Roman Catholicism. These people are another
variety in the strange mixture of races to be found in Hungary. It is
thought, and it would seem probable, that the very fact of the military
conscription will help to civilise these Rusniacks by drawing them out
of their savage isolation in the wild valleys of the Marmaros Mountains.

There are many peculiarities respecting the races inhabiting the
northern parts of Hungary. It would be a great mistake to put the Slavs
of the north in the same category with the Slavs of the south: the
former are on far better terms with the Magyars; they are for the most
part contented, hard-working people, not troubling themselves at all
about Panslavism. The reason is not far to seek. The Slovacks, as they
are called by way of distinction, numbering about two millions, do not
belong to the Greek Church. The greater proportion are Roman Catholics,
the rest Lutherans and Calvinists. Many of the Catholics are said to be
descended from refugees who fled from the tyranny of the Greek Church in
Polish Russia.

After leaving Kiraly-haza we got into charming scenery. As we approached
the Carpathians we passed through vast oak-forests, and here and there
had a glimpse of the Theiss rushing along over its stony bed.
Occasionally we caught sight of herds of buffaloes bathing in the river.
It is difficult to imagine that these fierce-looking creatures, with
their massive shaggy heads, can ever be tractable; yet they can be
managed, though only by kindness--"the rod of correction they cannot
bear." At length we reached the end of our railway journey. Marmaros
Szigeth is the present terminus of the line, and I should say will very
probably remain such; for the iron road would hardly meander through the
denies and over the heights of the Carpathians, to descend into the
sparsely-inhabited wilds of the Bukovina. We sought out the principal
inn at Szigeth, a wretched place, with only one room and a single bed at
our disposal.

My friend took possession of the bed at my request, for I told him I was
quite independent of the luxury, having provided myself before I left
England with an excellent hammock made of twine. I had learned to sleep
in these contrivances during my nav