That is why it is being systematised and made
open and respectable. It is in the blood. You cannot escape it; it
still follows you everywhere, no matter how far away you go.

Listen to this. I rode some days ago into the Imperial city in order
to climb the famous Mei Shan, or Coal Hill, built, according to
ancient tradition, so that when some immense disaster overwhelmed the
ruling dynasty, it might be lighted and consume in its flames the
whole Imperial family. That is the tradition--that the hill is an
immense funeral pyre. (Nowadays, however, ruling dynasties are so
human that they merely run away.) All the way up that historic hill I
was followed by the whining voices of disappointed looters. A
battalion of the French troops, which came straight from Europe a week
or so too late for the relief, was in garrison at the base of this
eminence, and French soldiers escorted me to the top, probably under
orders to see that I did not try and chip off the gold-leaf which is
reputed to line the roofs of the pavilions. You can never be quite
certain for what reason you are watched by rival nationalities now.

It was a long climb to the top, up winding steps that never ceased and
through little pavilions which looked out on the scene below. A final
flight of stairs at last introduced you into a structure which crowned
the whole. From here the view was magnificent. Right below you
could see far into the Palace and inspect the marble bridges, the
lotus-covered sheets of water and all the other things of the Imperial
plaisaunce. Farther on, the city of Peking spread out in huge expanses
hemmed in only miles away by the grey tracing of the city walls and
the high-standing towers. Farther again were waving fields with uncut
crops rotting as they stood, because all the country people had fled
to escape the vengeance. On the very horizon line were dark hills. The
view was indeed immense and wonderful.

I stood lost a little in this contemplation, and forgot the
attendants who had so persistently followed me, until suddenly their
voices rose in a dispute which was purposely loud so that it should
engage my attention. At last, as the stratagem had failed, and I did
not turn, a soldier bolder than his comrades pushed up to me, and
saluting politely enough, said that they had a few things to sell,
although they had had hard luck and had found Peking almost empty.
Indeed, before showing me anything, they complained bitterly of the
men f