t
soon we arrived almost at the flanking city walls miles away, and
found ourselves among scores and hundreds of the enemy, who were still
lurking on the streets, half disguised and mixed with the townspeople.
They fired at us as we rode; they fired at us when we stopped; for
many minutes there was nothing to be heard but the hissing of lead and
fierce yells....

Conscious that only a big effort would pull us through, we boldly
turned bridle and galloped to the south--reached a city gate, went
through at a frantic pace, and sought safety in the outer Chinese
town. Here it was quieter for a time, but as once more we approached
the central streets, down which the Allies had marched, we came across
other marauders. This time they were Indian troops going about in
bands, with only their side arms with them, but leaving the same
destruction behind them. Then we came across Americans, again some
French, then some Germans, until it became an endless procession of
looting men--conquerors and conquered mixed and indifferent....

It was eight at night before I pulled up on my foundered mount at
home. I confess I had had enough. We were dead with fatigue. This was
too much after one had those weeks of siege.

IV

CHAOS

August, 1900.

* * * * *

The refugee columns have gone at last, and have got down safely to the
boats at Tungchow, which is fifteen miles away, and in direct water
communication with Tientsin. It is good that nearly all the women and
children and the sick have been packed off. This is, indeed, no place
for them. An Indian regiment sent a band, which played the endless
columns of carts, sedan chairs, and stretchers out along the sands
under the Tartar Wall, until they were well on their way. That made
everyone break down a little and realise what it has been. They say
it was like India during the Mutiny, and that it was impossible for
any one to have a dry eye. Even the native troops, rich in traditions
and stories of such times, understood the curious significance of it
all. They talked a great deal and told their officers that it was the
same.

Thus, winding away over the sands and through the dust, the only
_raison d'etre_ of this great relief expedition has passed away.
Probably a conviction of this is why the situation in Peking itself
shows no signs of improving. Some say that it has become rather worse,
in a subtle, secret way. More troops have marched in, m