h in profit and reputation: while that of _table linen_ is
gaining proportionably in both.[100] There were formerly great _tanneries_
in Caen and its immediate vicinity, but lately that branch of trade has
suffered extremely. The revolution first gave it a violent check, and the
ignorance and inattention of the masters to recent improvements, introduced
by means of chemistry, have helped to hasten its decay. To balance this
misfortune, there has of late sprung up a very general and judiciously
directed commercial spirit in the article of _porcelaine_; and if Caen be
inferior to its neighbouring towns, and especially to Rouen and Lisieux, in
the articles of cloth, stuffs, and lace, it takes a decided lead in that
which relates to _pottery_ and _china_: no mean articles in the supply of
domestic wants and luxuries. But it is in matters of higher "pith and
moment" that Caen may claim a superiority over the towns just noticed.
There is a better spirit of _education_ abroad; and, for its size, more
science and more literature will be found in it.

This place has been long famous for the education of Lawyers. There are two
distinct academies--one for "Science and the Belles-Lettres"--the other for
agriculture and commerce. The _Lycee_ is a noble building, close to the
Abbey of St. Stephen: but I wish its facade had been Gothic, to harmonise
with the Abbey. Indeed, Caen has quite the air of Oxford, from the
prevalent appearance of _stone_ in its public buildings. The environs of
the town afford quarries, whence the stone is taken in great blocks, in a
comparatively soft state--and is thus cut into the several forms required
with the greatest facility. It is then exposed, and every succeeding day
appears to add to its white tint and durable quality. I saw some important
improvements making in the outskirts of the town,[101] in which they were
finishing shafts and capitals of columns in a manner the most correct and
gratifying. Still farther from the immediate vicinity of Caen, they find
stone of a closer grain; and with this they make stair-cases, and pavements
for the interior of buildings. Indeed the stone stair-cases in this place,
which are usually circular, and projecting from the building, struck me as
being equally curious and uncommon. It is asserted that they have different
kinds of _marble_ in the department of Calvados, which equal that of the
south of France. At _Basly_ and _Vieux_ white marble is found which has
been