usually capacious dimensions. But the poor Abbess
was cruelly afflicted; and in a gesture and tone of voice, of the most
piteous woe, implored the steward of the vessel for accommodation below.

Fortunately, as I was not in the least annoyed by sickness, I had leisure
to survey the heights of Honfleur before we landed; and looking towards the
course of the River Seine, as it narrowed in its windings, I discovered
_Harfleur_ and _Hocher_ nearly opposite; and, a good deal lower down, the
little fishing town of _Quillebeuf_, apparently embedded in the water.
Honfleur itself is surely among the most miserable of fishing towns[93]--or
whatever be the staple commodity that supports it. But the environs make
amends for the squalidness of the town. A few years of peace and plenty
would work wonders even in the improvements of these environs. Perhaps no
situation is more favourable for the luxury of a summer retirement.[94] I
paid only eight sous for my passage; and having no passport to be _vised_
(which indeed was the case at Havre,) we selected a stout lad or two, from
the crowds of lookers on, as we landed, to carry our luggage to the inn
from which the diligence sets off for CAEN. It surprised us to see with
what alacrity these lads carried the baggage up a steep hill in their
trucks, or barrows; but we were disgusted with the miserable forms, and
miserable clothing, of both sexes, which we encountered as we proceeded. I
was fortunate to be in time to secure my place in the Diligence. The horses
were in the very act of being put to, as I paid my reckoning beforehand.

Judge of our surprise and gratification on seeing two well-dressed, and
apparently well-bred Englishmen, securing their places at the same time. It
is not always that, at first sight, Englishmen associate so quickly, and
apparently so cordially, as did these gentlemen with ourselves. They were
the Messrs. D*** of _L_**** _Hall_ in Yorkshire: the elder brother an
Oxford man of the same standing with myself. The younger, a Cantab. We were
all bound for Caen; and right gladly did we coalesce upon this expedition.

We proceeded at a good sharp pace; and as we ascended the very high hill on
the direct road to Caen, with fine leafy trees on each side, and upon a
noble breadth of road, I looked out of the diligence to enjoy the truly
magnificent view of the Seine--with glimpses of _Harfleur_ and _Havre_ on
the opposite coast. The cessation of the rain, and the quick m