murdered the other; just the
place for it. After a variety of windings came to an enormous rock.
Arrived at the foot of the mountain (the Jungfrau, that is, the
Maiden)--glaciers--torrents: one of these torrents _nine hundred feet_
in height of visible descent. Lodged at the curate's. Set out to see
the valley--heard an avalanche fall, like thunder--glaciers
enormous--storm came on, thunder, lightning, hail--all in perfection,
and beautiful. I was on horseback; guide wanted to carry my cane; I
was going to give it him, when I recollected that it was a
sword-stick, and I thought the lightning might be attracted towards
him; kept it myself; a good deal encumbered with it, as it was too
heavy for a whip, and the horse was stupid, and stood with every
other peal. Got in, not very wet, the cloak being stanch. Hobhouse
wet through; Hobhouse took refuge in cottage; sent man, umbrella, and
cloak, (from the curate's when I arrived) after him. Swiss curate's
house very good indeed--much better than most English vicarages. It is
immediately opposite the torrent I spoke of. The torrent is in shape
curving over the rock, like the _tail_ of a white horse streaming in
the wind, such as it might be conceived would be that of the 'pale
horse' on which Death is mounted in the Apocalypse.[2] It is neither
mist nor water, but a something between both; its immense height (nine
hundred feet) gives it a wave or curve, a spreading here, or
condensation there, wonderful and indescribable. I think, upon the
whole, that this day has been better than any of this present
excursion.
[2] It is interesting to observe the use to which he
afterwards converted these hasty memorandums in his sublime
drama of Manfred:--
It is not noon--the sunbow's rays still arch
The torrent with the many hues of heaven,
And roll the sheeted silver's waving column,
O'er the crag's headlong perpendicular,
And fling its lines of foaming light along,
_And to and fro, like the pale courser's tail,
The Giant steed, to be bestrode by Death,
As told in the Apocalypse._
"Sept. 23rd.
"Before ascending the mountain, went to the torrent (seven in the
morning) again; the sun upon it, forming a _rainbow_ of the lower part
of all colours, but principally purple and gold; the bow moving as you
move; I never saw anything like this: it is only in the sunshine.
Ascended the Wengen mountain; at noon reached a valley
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