ealth, like the patriarchs',
is cattle,) in the pastures, which reach to a height far above any
mountains in Britain, and the shepherds shouting to us from crag to
crag, and playing on their reeds where the steeps appeared almost
inaccessible, with the surrounding scenery, realized all that I have
ever heard or imagined of a pastoral existence;--much more so than
Greece or Asia Minor, for there we are a little too much of the sabre
and musket order--and if there is a crook in one hand, you are sure to
see a gun in the other;--but this was pure and unmixed--solitary,
savage, and patriarchal. As we went, they played the 'Ranz des Vaches'
and other airs by way of farewell. I have lately repeopled my mind
with nature.

"Sept. 20th.

"Up at six; off at eight. The whole of this day's journey at an
average of between from 2,700 to 3,000 feet above the level of the
sea. This valley, the longest, narrowest, and considered the finest of
the Alps, little traversed by travellers. Saw the bridge of La Roche.
The bed of the river very low and deep, between immense rocks, and
rapid as anger;--a man and mule said to have tumbled over without
damage. The people looked free, and happy, and _rich_ (which last
implies neither of the former;) the cows superb; a bull nearly leapt
into the char-a-banc--'agreeable companion in a post-chaise;' goats
and sheep very thriving. A mountain with enormous glaciers to the
right--the Klitzgerberg; further on, the Hockthorn--nice names--so
soft;--_Stockhorn_, I believe, very lofty and scraggy, patched with
snow only; no glaciers on it, but some good epaulettes of clouds.

"Passed the boundaries, out of Vaud and into Berne canton; French
exchanged for bad German; the district famous for cheese, liberty,
property, and no taxes. Hobhouse went to fish--caught none. Strolled
to the river--saw boy and kid--kid followed him like a dog--kid could
not get over a fence, and bleated piteously--tried myself to help kid,
but nearly overset both self and kid into the river. Arrived here
about six in the evening. Nine o'clock--going to bed; not tired
to-day, but hope to sleep, nevertheless."

"Sept. 22nd.

"Left Thoun in a boat, which carried us the length of the lake in
three hours. The lake small, but the banks fine. Rocks down to the
water's edge. Landed at Newhause--passed Interlachen--entered upon a
range of scenes beyond all description, or previous conception. Passed
a rock: inscription--two brothers--one