se greatly decay if some means were not found whereby
they might be increased. But, howsoever this case standeth, white
meats, milk, butter, and cheese (which were never so dear as in my
time, and wont to be accounted of as one of the chief stays throughout
the island) are now reputed as food appertinent only to the inferior
sort, whilst such as are more wealthy do feed upon the flesh of all
kinds of cattle accustomed to be eaten, all sorts of fish taken upon
our coasts and in our fresh rivers, and such diversity of wild and
tame fowls as are either bred in our island or brought over unto us
from other countries of the main.

In number of dishes and change of meat the nobility of England (whose
cooks are for the most part musical-headed Frenchmen and strangers) do
most exceed, sith there is no day in manner that passeth over their
heads wherein they have not only beef, mutton, veal, lamb, kid, pork,
cony, capon, pig, or so many of these as the season yieldeth, but also
some portion of the red or fallow deer, beside great variety of fish
and wild fowl, and thereto sundry other delicates wherein the sweet
hand of the seafaring Portugal is not wanting: so that for a man to
dine with one of them, and to taste of every dish that standeth before
him (which few used to do, but each one feedeth upon that meat him
best liketh for the time, the beginning of every dish notwithstanding
being reserved unto the greatest personage that sitteth at the table,
to whom it is drawn up still by the waiters as order requireth, and
from whom it descendeth again even to the lower end, whereby each one
may taste thereof), is rather to yield unto a conspiracy with a great
deal of meat for the speedy suppression of natural health than the use
of a necessary mean to satisfy himself with a competent repast to
sustain his body withal. But, as this large feeding is not seen in
their guests, no more is it in their own persons; for, sith they have
daily much resort unto their tables (and many times unlooked for), and
thereto retain great numbers of servants, it is very requisite and
expedient for them to be somewhat plentiful in this behalf.

The chief part likewise of their daily provision is brought in before
them (commonly in silver vessels, if they be of the degree of barons,
bishops, and upwards) and placed on their tables, whereof, when they
have taken what it pleaseth them, the rest is reserved, and afterwards
sent down to their serving men and