to the gloomy shade of a Ceylon forest. I have
already described the large retinue with which we had to move; and
though we carried a great deal of food, so much was required for so
large a number that we had to depend mainly on our guns for the meat to
put into our pots. Of this, however, neither Nowell nor I complained,
as it gave us the very sort of employment we most enjoyed.
One ordinary day's journey was very much like another. The first
morning we were aroused before sunrise, and on going out of our tents we
found our attendants with torches in their hands ready to accompany us.
These were not only to light us on our way, but to frighten off any
bears, wild boars, or elephants, who might be crossing our path, and
would be ugly customers to meet in a narrow road. These torches are
called _chides_. They are made out of the straight and dry branches of
the "welang tree," which is bruised into loose strips, still, however,
holding together. They last burning for a couple of hours. No scene
could be more picturesque, as our numerous cavalcade wound down a
mountain path, with rocks and woods on either side; some thrown into
shade, and others standing out prominently in the ruddy glare thrown
around by the torches. We rode on till the heat of the sun warned us
that it was time to stop; and while our tents were pitched by the side
of a stream of pure water, which had its source in the neighbouring
mountains, the servants lighted the fires, and commenced active
preparations for breakfast. Rice was boiled, coffee was made, curries
concocted, and game--which had just before been shot--spitted and set to
turn and roast. We meantime enjoyed the luxury of a cool bath within
the shade of our tents. There were no crocodiles in the stream; but in
most places it is dangerous to bathe in the tanks and rivers, which
abound with them, as many are large enough to carry off a man between
their jaws without the slightest difficulty.
By the side of the stream grew numerous tall trees, in many places
completely overarching it. The most remarkable was the kombook, from
the branches of which hung the pods of the large puswel bean. The pods
are the most gigantic I have seen, measuring six feet in length, by five
or six inches in width. From the calcined bark of this tree the natives
extract a sort of lime, with which they mix the betel they are
constantly chewing. The inhabitants of Ceylon have the same enjoyment
in it as E
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