dition to the
ordinary opportunities afforded by a long visit and knowledge of the
language and manners of the people.

When the Emperor was in St. Petersburg, he drove about freely every day
like a private person. He was never escorted or attended by guards. In
place of a lackey a Kazak orderly sat beside the coachman. The orderlies
of no other military men wore the Kazak uniform. Any one acquainted with
this fact, or with the Emperor's face, could recognize him as he passed.
There was no other sign; even the soldiers, policemen, and gendarmes
gave him the same salute which they gave to every general. At Peterhoff,
in summer, he often drove, equally unescorted, to listen to the music in
the palace park, which was open to all the public.

On occasions of state or ceremony, such as a royal wedding or the
arrival of the Shah of Persia, troops lined the route of the procession,
as part of the show, and to keep the quiet but vigorously surging masses
of spectators in order; just as the police keep order on St. Patrick's
Day in New York, or as the militia kept order and made part of the show
during the land naval parade at the Columbian festivities in New York.
On such occasions the practice as to allowing spectators on balconies,
windows, and roofs varied. For example, during the Emperor's recent
funeral procession in Moscow, roofs, balconies, open windows, and every
point of vantage were occupied by spectators. In St. Petersburg, the
public was forbidden to occupy roofs, balconies, lamp-posts, or
railings, and it was ordered that all windows should be shut, though, as
usual, no restriction was placed on benches, stools, and other aids to a
view. A few days later, when the Emperor Nicholas II. drove from his
wedding in the Winter Palace to the Anitchkoff Palace, roofs, balconies,
and open windows were crowded with spectators. I saw the Emperor
Alexander III. from an open balcony, and behind closed windows.

On the regular festivals and festivities, such as St. George's Day, New
Year's Day, the Epiphany (the "Jordan," or Blessing of the Neva), the
state balls, Easter, and so forth, every one knew where to look for the
Emperor, and at what hour. The official notifications in the morning
papers, informing members of the Court at what hour and place to present
themselves, furnished a good guide to the Emperor's movements for any
one who did not already know. On such days the approaches to the Winter
Palace were kept open for