a Bishop and a Natchalnik, is only a
village, and is insignificant when one thinks of the magnificent plain
in which it stands. At every step I made in this country I thought of
the noble field which it offers for a system of colonization congenial
to the feelings, and subservient to the interests of the present
occupants.

We now journeyed to Karanovatz, where we arrived after sunset, and
proceeded in the dark up a paved street, till we saw on our left a
_cafe_, with lights gleaming through the windows, and a crowd of
people, some inside, some outside, sipping their coffee. An
individual, who announced himself as the captain of Karanovatz,
stepped forward, accompanied by others, and conducted me to his house.
Scarcely had I sat down on his divan when two handmaidens entered, one
of them bearing a large basin in her hand.

"My guest," said the captain, "you must be fatigued with your ride.
This house is your's. Suppose yourself at home in the country beyond
the sea."

"What," said I, looking to the handmaidens, "supper already! You have
divined my arrival to a minute."

"Oh, no; we must put you at your ease before supper time; it is warm
water."

"Nothing can be more welcome to a traveller." So the handmaidens
advanced, and while one pulled off my socks, I lolling luxuriously on
the divan, and smoking my pipe, the other washed my feet with water,
tepid to a degree, and then dried them. With these agreeable
sensations still soothing me, coffee was brought by the lady of the
house, on a very pretty service; and I could not help admitting that
there was less roughing in Servian travel than I expected.

After supper, the pariah priest came in, a middle-aged man.

_Author_. "Do you remember the Turkish period at Karanovatz?"

_Priest_. "No; I came here only lately. My native place is Wuchitern,
on the borders of a large lake in the High Balkan; but, in common with
many of the Christian inhabitants, I was obliged to emigrate last
year."

_Author_. "For what reason?"

_Priest_. "A horde of Albanians, from fifteen to twenty thousand in
number, burst from the Pashalic of Scodra upon the peaceful
inhabitants of the Pashalic of Vrania, committing the greatest
horrors, burning down villages, and putting the inhabitants to the
torture, in order to get money, and dishonouring all the handsomest
women. The Porte sent a large force, disarmed the rascals, and sent
the leaders to the galleys; but I and my people find oursel