er troublesome, nevertheless they travelled at a pretty
quick pace, and between eight and nine o'clock, halted at a pleasant
and comfortable village called Etudy. The chief sent them a fowl and
four hundred kowries; but they stopped only to take a slight
refreshment, and to pay their respects. They then proceeded through
large plantations of cotton, indigo, Indian corn, and yams, and over
stony fields, till between ten and eleven, when they entered the town
of Chouchou. They were almost immediately introduced to the chief,
and from him into a ruinous hut, in a more filthy state than can be
imagined. No pigstye was ever half so bad. Its late occupier had
incurred the displeasure and hatred of the chief, because he happened
to be very rich, and rather than pay a heavy fine, he ran away and
joined his former enemies, and this partly accounted for the
destitution and wretchedness around them.
Since leaving Jenna they met an incredible number of persons visited
with the loss of one eye. They assigned no other reason for their
misfortune, than the heat and glare of the rays of the sun.
During the whole of this night it rained most heavily; but their hut,
although of the very worst description, had a pretty good thatched
roof, and sheltered them better than they could have expected. There
are seasons and periods in our life-time, in which we feel a happy
complacency of temper and an inward satisfaction, cheerfulness, and
joy, for which we cannot very well account, but which constrain us to
be at peace with ourselves and our neighbours, and in love with all
the works of God. In this truly enviable frame of mind, Richard
Lander says he awoke on this morning, to proceed onwards on
horseback. It was a morning, which was fairly entitled to the epithet
of incense breathing; for the variety of sweet-smelling perfumes,
which exhaled after the rain, from forest flowers and flowering
shrubs, was delicious and almost overpowering. The scenery which
gratified their eyes on this day, was more interesting and lovely,
than any they had heretofore beheld. The path circled round a
magnificent, cultivated valley, hemmed in on almost every side with
mountains of granite of the most grotesque and irregular shapes, the
summits of which were covered with stunted trees, and the hollows in
their slopes occupied by clusters of huts, whose inmates had fled
thither as a place of security against the ravages of the _warmen_
who infest the plains. A n
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