r as the boat ploughs southwards. Once upon a time
Gibraltar had constituted in our minds the outposts, so to speak, of
civilization; but since we had spent three months in such an unexplored
spot as the Tetuan vale and mountains, without society of the
conventional type, or library, or church, or any other adjuncts, Tangier,
when we came back to it, appeared in the light of a Paris. And now
Tangier was again to be left behind; and on one of the little
coasting-steamers, which deliver cargo at ports on the way, we meant to
travel down to Mogador. To have marched the same distance would have
meant perhaps a month on the road, going by Fez and taking it easily;
therefore we saved much time by taking the steamer. Though by all report
it was not likely to be at all a comfortable journey, it could only last
four days at most; and few travellers but can stand four days'
discomfort.

We did not start without a few warnings and cautions from various
friends, who seemed inclined to think that we were doing an unprecedented
thing in thus setting off alone into the interior without even a reliable
servant, which since the desertion of S`lam was the case. That could not
be helped. We hoped for the best as regarded finding men in Mogador.

[Illustration: ILLUSTRATIVE OF THE WAY WE RODE IN MOROCCO.

[_To face p. 262._]

Sir Arthur Nicolson had provided us with letters of introduction to the
British Consul in Mogador, and to a Moor in Morocco City, where it is
unnecessary to say there are no representatives of the English
Government. I had written to him on the subject of getting up to Glaouia,
in the Atlas Mountains, and had received the following reply:--

"DEAR MISS SAVORY,--

"As the Court is away from Morocco City, I hardly think it would
be wise for you to attempt a visit to Glaouia. Matters are never
very stable when the seat of Government is away, and I do not
think the Government would be disposed to give you a permit at
present. There would, however, be no objection whatever to your
going to Morocco City, and I think you will find the journey
interesting.

"Yours very truly,
"A. NICOLSON."

This letter was a blow. But when we finally reached Morocco City we found
that the thing could be done--that we could get up to Glaouia either
under the protection of the English missionaries or with a certain Jewish
trader who lives in Morocco City. The fact of the matter is, that