n it.

At the bathing (or baptism) place of the Greeks, northwards from that of
the Latins, to which English travellers are usually conducted, we had to
cross, by swimming as we could. {5} King David, on his return from
exile, had a ferry-boat to carry over his household, but we had none.
Probably, on his escaping from Absalom, he crossed as we did.

The middle part of the river was still too deep for mere fording. Horses
and men had to swim; so the gentlemen sat still on their saddles, with
their feet put up on the necks of their horses, which were led by naked
swimming Arabs in the water holding the bridles, one on each side.

Baggage was carried over mostly on the animals; but had to be previously
adjusted and tightened, so as to be least liable to get wetted. Small
parcels were carried over on the heads of the swimmers. These all
carried their own clothes in that manner. One of the luggage mules fell
with his load in the middle of the stream. It was altogether a lively
scene. Our Arabs were much darker over the whole body than I had
expected to find them; and the 'Adwan have long plaits of hair hanging on
the shoulders when the _kefieh_, or coloured head-dress, is removed. The
horses and beasts of burden were often restive in mid-current, and
provoked a good deal of merriment. Some of the neighbouring camps having
herds of cattle, sent them to drink and to cool themselves in the river,
as the heat of the day increased. Their drivers urged them in, and then
enjoyed the fun of keeping them there by swimming round and round them.
One cow was very nearly lost, however, being carried away rapidly and
helplessly in the direction of the Dead Sea, but she was recovered. The
Jericho people returned home, several of them charged with parting
letters addressed to friends in Jerusalem; and we were left reposing,
literally reposing, on the eastern bank,--the English chatting happily;
the Arabs smoking or sleeping under shade of trees; pigeons cooing among
the thick covert, and a Jordan nightingale soothing us occasionally, with
sometimes a hawk or an eagle darting along the sky; while the
world-renowned river rolled before our eyes.

"Labitur et labetur in omne volubilis aevum."

The novelty of the scenes, and the brilliancy of the atmosphere, as well
the vivacity of the recent transactions in "passing over Jordan," had
their duly buoyant effect upon youthful persons,--who were, however, not
forgetful of past