direct road to Peschiera, while Colonna and I made a deviation
to Vicenza, whither we journeyed on foot; a mode of travelling the
most favourable to colloquial enjoyment, and to an accurate and
comprehensive view of the country. We found the numerous edifices of
Palladio in Vicenza and its vicinity in many respects unworthy of that
noble architect; many of them are indeed remodelled fronts of old
houses, in which the pure taste of the artist was warped by the want
of capability in the original elevations. The palaces built after
his designs are deficient in extent and variety, and may be termed
experimental models, rather than effective illustrations, of his
chaste and classical conceptions. In his triumphal arch at the
entrance of the Campo Marzo we found much to admire, and not less
in his beautiful bridge which spans the Bacchiglione. How bold, and
light, and elegant the arch, like the daring leap of a youthful
amazon! And how cheerful the open balustrade, through which the clear
and sparkling waters are seen rolling their rapid course to the
adjacent city!

It is in Venice that the fine genius of Palladio develops all its
supremacy. The Cornaro palace on the grand canal, and the unfinished
convent of La Carita, are splendid efforts of pure taste in design and
decoration; and as perfect in execution and finish as if cast in
a mould. His churches too, especially that glorious edifice, Al
Redentore--how simple in design, and yet how beautifully effective
and harmonious in proportion and outline!

We proceeded on the following morning to Verona, which excited a
stronger interest than Vicenza by its classical associations and
striking position on the river Adige, a lively daughter of the Alps.
Rushing from her mountain bed, she urges her rapid and devious course
through the city, dividing it into two portions, connected by the
bridge of Scaliger. This fine edifice rises on bold arches, wider, and
more heroic, and more scientific, than that of the Rialto, the wonder
of Venice, which is indeed no bridge, but a huge and inconvenient
staircase.

Pursuing as we journeyed onward the subject of architecture, I
commented on the insignificant appearance of the temples of Pantheism,
when compared with the majestic cathedrals for which the Christian
world is indebted to the barbarians of the middle ages.

"The Greeks and Romans," observed Colonna, "erected a temple to
each individual of their numerous deities. These buildings