e candle itself on it, or by melting some of it in a saucepan and
applying it with a brush. Then take your soldering-iron (fig. 58) and
get it to the proper heat, which you must learn by practice, and proceed
to "tin" it by rubbing it on a sheet of tin with a little solder on it,
and also some resin and a little glass-dust, until the "bit" (which is
of copper) has a bright tin face. Then, holding the stick of solder in
the left hand, put the end of it down close to the joint you wish to
solder, and put the end of the iron against it, "biting off" as it were,
but really _melting_ off, a little bit, which will form a liquid drop
upon the joint. Spread this drop so as to seal up the joint nice and
smooth and even, and the thing is done. Repeat with all the joints; then
turn the panel over and do the opposite side.

[Illustration: FIG. 57.]

[Illustration: FIG. 58.]

_How to Handle Leaded Lights._--I said "turn the panel over." But that
brings to mind a caution that you need about the handling of leaded
lights. You must not--as I once saw a man do--start to hold them as a
waiter does a tray. You must note that thin glass in the sheet and also
leaded lights, especially before cementing, are not rigid, and cannot be
handled as if they were panels of wood; you must take care, when
carrying them, or when they lean against the wall, to keep them as
nearly upright as they will safely stand, and the inside one leaning
against a board, and not bearing its own weight. And in laying them on
the bench or in lifting them off it, you must first place them so that
the middle line of them corresponds with the edge of the bench, or
table, and then turn them on that as an axis, quickly, so that they do
not bear their own weight longer than necessary (figs. 59 and 60).

_How to Cement a Leaded Light._--The next process is the cementing of
the light so as to fill up the grooves of the lead and make all
weather-proof. This is done with a mixture composed as follows:--
Whitening, 2/3 to plaster of Paris 1/3; add a mixture of equal
quantities of boiled linseed-oil and spirit of turpentine to make a
paste about as thick as treacle. Add a little red lead to help to harden
it, some patent dryer to cause it to dry, and lamp-black to colour.

This must be put in plenty on to the surface of the panel and well
scrubbed into the joints with a hard fibre brush; an ordinary coarse
"grass brush" or "bass brush," with wooden back, as sold for scrubbing