ill in existence. From it we
learn that enough clothing was provided to supply to each emigrant four
"peare of shewes," four "peare of stockings," a "peare Norwich garters,"
four shirts, two "sutes dublet and hose of leather lynd with oil'd skyn
leather, ye hose & dublett with hookes & eyes," a "sute of Norden
dussens or hampshire kersies lynd, the hose with skins, dublets with
lynen of gilford or gedlyman kerseys," four bands, two handkerchiefs, a
"wastcoate of greene cotton bound about with red tape," a leather
girdle, a Monmouth cap, a "black hatt lyned in the browes with lether,"
five "Red knit capps mill'd about 5d a piece," two pair of gloves, a
mandillion "lyned with cotton," one pair of breeches and waistcoat, and
a "lether sute of Dublett & breeches of oyled lether," and one pair of
leather breeches and "drawers to serve to weare with both their other
sutes."
This surely was a liberal outfit save perhaps in the matter of shirts
and handkerchiefs, and doubtless intended to last many years. Though
simple it was far from being a sombre one. Scarlet caps and green
waistcoats bound with red made cheerful bits of color alongside the
leather breeches and buff doublets on Salem shore.
The apparel of the Piscataquay planters, furnished in 1635, varied
somewhat from that just enumerated. Their waistcoats were scarlet, and
they had cassocks of cloth and canvas, instead of doublets. Though
scarce more than a lustrum had passed since the settlement on the shores
of the Bay, long hose like the Florentine hose had become entirely
old-fashioned and breeches were the wear. Coats--"lynd coats, papous
coats, and moose coats"--had also been invented, or at any rate dubbed
with that name and assumed. Cassocks, doublets, and jerkins varied
little in shape, and the names seem to have been interchangeable.
Mandillions, said by some authorities to be cloaks, were in fact much
like the doublets, and were worn apparently as an over-garment or
great-coat. The name appears not in inventories after the earliest
years.
Though simplicity of dress was one of the cornerstones of the Puritan
Church, the individual members did not yield their personal vanity
without many struggles. As soon as the colonies rallied from the first
years of poverty and, above all, of comparative isolation, and a sequent
tide of prosperity and wealth came rolling in, the settlers began to
pick up in dress, to bedeck themselves, to send eagerly to the mother
cou
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