y 1-1/2, for four rafters.
50 feet of 2 by 1-1/2, for door frames and doors.
6 feet of 2 by 2, for tie t.
45 feet of 2-foot wire netting.
Two pairs of hinges; two locks; staples, etc.

The materials used comprise:--
The total cost as estimated from prices current at the time of writing is
25s. This cost could be considerably reduced by using lighter stuff all
through for the framework and doors and by covering in the house with old
boards, which may be picked up cheaply if one is lucky. Whether it is
advisable to sacrifice durability and rigidity to cost must be left to the
maker to decide. Anyhow, if the specifications given are followed, an
outfit warranted to last for several years will be produced.

A Few Points.--The vertical height of the run is just under 6 feet, the
tips being cut away from the rafters at the apex. The width at the ground
is exactly 6 feet. The base angles made by AA with B (Fig. 14) are 63
degrees; that which they make with one another, 54 degrees. The rafters r1
and r3 at each end of the house are half an inch thicker than the rest, as
they have to stand a lot of nailing.

CONSTRUCTION.

Cutting the Rafters.--If floor space is available, chalk out accurately
the external outline of a pair of rafters (80 inches long each before
shaping) and a line joining their lower ends. Then draw a line bisecting
the ridge angle. With this template as guide the rafters can be quickly cut
to shape. Another method is to cut one rafter out very carefully, making a
notch for half the width of the ridge, and to use it as a pattern for the
rest. In any case the chalked lines will prove useful in the next operation
of pairing the rafters and uniting them by a tie just under the ridge
notch. Cut a 4 by 1 inch notch at the bottom of each rafter, on the
outside, for the base piece. The two end pairs have the B pieces (Fig. 14)
nailed on to them, and r3 the tie t, which should be in line with the
rafters. The other three pairs require temporary ties halfway up to prevent
straddling during erection.

Door Frames and Doors.--The method of fixing the frame of the door at the
run end is shown in Fig. 14. The material for the frame being 1/2 inch
thicker than that of the rafters, there is room for shoulders at the top
angles, as indicated by dotted lines. The door frame at the house end is of
the same thickness as r1 so that no overlapping is possible. This being the
case, screws should be used in preference to na