rada
Nuova; the others are little paved alleys, most of them impassable to
carriages, both from their narrowness and the irregularity of the
ground on which the city is built.

The Strada Nuova is formed of a double line of magnificent palaces,
among which the Doria Palace is conspicuous. The architecture is in
general fine; and when not good is at least pleasing; the fronts of
the houses are in general gaily painted and stuccoed. The best
apartments are usually at the top; and the roofs often laid out in
terraces, or paved with marble and adorned with flowers and shrubs.

I have seen few good pictures here: the best collections are those in
the Brignolet and Durazzo palaces. In the latter are some striking
pictures by Spagnoletto (or Ribera, as he is called here). In the
Brignolet, the Roman Daughter, by Guido, struck me most. I was also
pleased by some fine pictures of the Genoese painter Piola, who is
little known beyond Genoa.

The church of the Carignano, which is a miniature model of St.
Peter's, contains Paget's admirable statue of St. Sebastian, which
Napoleon intended to have conveyed to Paris.

* * * * *

Beauty is no rarity at Genoa: I think I never saw so many fine women
in one place, though I have seen finer faces at Rome and Naples than
any I see here. The mezzaro, a veil or shawl thrown over the head and
round the shoulders, is universal, and is certainly the most natural
and becoming dress which can be worn by our sex: the materials differ
in fineness, from the most exquisite lace and the most expensive
embroidery, to a piece of chintz or linen, but the effect is the same.
This costume, which prevails more or less through all Italy, but here
is general, gives something of beauty to the plainest face, and
something of elegance to the most vulgar figure; it can make
deformity itself look passable: and when worn by a really graceful
and beautiful female, the effect is peculiarly picturesque and
bewitching.

It was a Festa to-day; and we drove slowly along the Ponente after
dinner. Nothing could be more gay than the streets and public walks,
crowded with holiday people: the women were in proportion as six to
one; and looked like groups dressed to figure in a melodrame or
ballet.

* * * * *

When once we have left Genoa behind us, and have taken our last look
of the blue Mediterranean, I shall indeed feel that we have quitted
Italy. Pie