e note at Suez, who had put up
at Hill's Hotel; one, an American gentleman, who had come across the
desert for the purpose of looking at the Red Sea. I saw him mounted
upon a donkey, and gazing as he stood upon the shore at the bright but
narrow channel, so interesting to all who have read the history of the
Israelites, with reverential feelings. I felt a strong inclination
to accost him; but refrained, being unwilling to disturb his reveries
with what he might have thought an impertinent interruption. It was
evidently a last look, for he was veiled for the journey, and at
length, tearing himself away, he turned his donkey's head, and
struck into the desert. The other traveller was a young Scotsman,
who proposed to go as far as Aden in the _Berenice_, on his way to
Abyssinia, trusting that a residence of some months in Egypt would
enable him to pass for a Turk. He had no very precise object in view,
but intended to make an attempt to explore the sources of the Nile.

There was nothing in Suez that could make a longer stay desirable, and
we quitted it without regret. My journey through Egypt had been much
too rapid for me to presume to give any decided opinion concerning
the strongly agitated question respecting the merits of the Pasha's
government. It is very evident that he has not learned the most
instructive lesson of political economy, nor has yet understood that
the way to render himself powerful is to make his subjects rich;
nevertheless, though his exactions and monopolies may be felt at
present as very serious evils, yet, in establishing manufactories, and
in embodying a national force, there can be no doubt that he has sown
the seeds of much that is good; and should his government, after
his death, fall into the hands of people equally free from religious
prejudices, we may reasonably hope that they will entertain more
enlarged and liberal views, and thus render measures, now difficult
to bear, of incalculable advantage to the future prosperity of the
country.

The British Consul politely offered to conduct myself and my female
friends on board the steamer; he accordingly called for us, and I
bade, as I hoped, a last adieu to Suez, it being my wish and intention
to return home by way of Cosseir. Previous to our embarkation, a
series of regulations had been placed in our hands for the engagement
of passages in the Honourable Company's armed steamers, with
instructions to passengers, &c.

Upon repairing to ou