a lank gentleman with a languid
smile who further enlightened Angus Jones.

"Take on hands at Madeira? You're crazy. Do you suppose we want the port
closed to us for shipping monarchist suspects? They always head for
Brazil, and we're watched every minute."

"I am not a monarchist, nor yet a suspect," said Angus Jones.

"You're the only man around here who can say so. A word of advice. Go
straight to the _alfandega_ and pay your tax. If any one hears you're
trying to get away without squaring yourself with the authorities,
you'll more likely get a free passage to jail."

"Sir--!"

"And I'll ask you kindly not to hang about my place. Now, I've done my
best for you. _Va-se'mbora!_"

In the street Angus Jones deigned to question me.

"What is this unlucky tax?"

"It is levied on every one who chooses to export himself from these
salubrious shores," I explained. "It is a matter of five hundred reis."

That brought him to a dead halt in his tracks.

"How did you thrive in the mountains?" I was moved to ask.

"Moderately, as a corn doctor. It is their simple custom to wear shoes
three sizes too small. The only drawback was the absence of currency.
When I came to collect, what was my grief to find they still rely on
barter and exchange."

"Then you will be relieved to hear, possibly, that five hundred reis is
no more than half a dollar."

"The simplicity of them!" cried Angus Jones. "Do you know, it is a
relief. And yet, it scarce betters us, for he who lacks the penny also
lacks the pound.

"However, we will concede the point of departure, temporarily. Remains
the populace, the great and generous heart that animates the bosom of
the native race. What is a steamship agent?... Man, he also is a
stranger living on their simplicity."

* * * * *

We turned into a maze of cobbled ways behind the market, passing between
rows of shuttered shops. It was the offseason, and in this midday hour
the city dozed.

"Here should be the local version of a delicatessen," said Angus Jones
before the store of Joao Gomez. We entered where Joao sat intrenched
amid sugar loaves and tinned goods and silvered sausages, beneath a
flock of lard balloons no rounder nor shinier than his face.

"Good morning," said Angus Jones. "I hope you are quite well. I hope all
your family are quite well. Behold in me, sir, a learned medico recently
come from London with healing for these islands. Any and all ills