a strange
unearthly effect. It was the monosyllable la, la, la, uttered in a
shrill trembling tone, which I thought much more like pain than
rejoicing. The Pasha was dressed in full trousers of dark cloth, a light
lilac-coloured jacket, and a red cap without a turban. When he was
seated, the monks brought us some sherbet, which was excellently made;
and as our seats were very near the great man, we saw everything in an
easy and luxurious way; and it being announced that the Mahomedan Pasha
was ready, the Christian miracle, which had been waiting for some time,
was now on the point of being displayed.

The people were by this time become furious; they were worn out with
standing in such a crowd all night, and as the time approached for the
exhibition of the holy fire they could not contain themselves for joy.
Their excitement increased as the time for the miracle in which all
believed drew near. At about one o'clock the Patriarch went into the
ante-chapel of the sepulchre, and soon after a magnificent procession
moved out of the Greek chapel. It conducted the Patriarch three times
round the tomb; after which he took off his outer robes of cloth of
silver, and went into the sepulchre, the door of which was then closed.
The agitation of the pilgrims was now extreme: they screamed aloud; and
the dense mass of people shook to and fro, like a field of corn in the
wind.

[Illustration: image of a bundle of thin wax-candles
enclosed in an iron frame.]

There is a round hole in one part of the chapel over the sepulchre, out
of which the holy fire is given, and up to this the man who had agreed
to pay the highest sum for this honour was conducted by a strong guard
of soldiers. There was silence for a minute; and then a light appeared
out of the tomb, and the happy pilgrim received the holy fire from the
Patriarch within. It consisted of a bundle of thin wax-candles, lit, and
enclosed in an iron frame to prevent their being torn asunder and put
out in the crowd: for a furious battle commenced immediately; every one
being so eager to obtain the holy light, that one man put out the candle
of his neighbour in trying to light his own. It is said that as much as
ten thousand piasters has been paid for the privilege of first receiving
the holy fire, which is believed to ensure eternal salvation. The Copts
got eight purses this year for the first candle they gave to a pilgrim
of their own persuasion.

This was the whole of the cerem