gh happily only
in the days long agone. The castle of Carlisle was a noted border
stronghold, built of red sandstone by King William Rufus, who rebuilt
Carlisle, which had then lain in ruins two hundred years because of the
forays of the Danes. Richard III. enlarged the castle, and Henry VIII.
built the citadel. Here Mary Queen of Scots was once lodged, but in
Elizabeth's time the castle fell into decay. In the town is a fine
cathedral, which has been thoroughly restored. In a flat situation north
of Carlisle are the ruins of Scaleby Castle, once a fortress of great
strength, but almost battered to pieces when it resisted Cromwell's
forces. There are several acres enclosed within the moat, intended for
the cattle when driven in to escape the forays that came over the
border. This venerable castle is now a picturesque ruin. Twelve miles
north-east of Carlisle is Naworth Castle, near where the Roman Wall
crossed England. This is one of the finest feudal remains in Cumberland,
having been the stronghold of the Wardens of the Marches, who guarded
the border from Scottish incursions. It stands amid fine scenery, and
just to the southward is the Roman Wall, of which many remains are still
traced, while upon the high moorland in the neighborhood is the paved
Roman Road, twelve feet wide and laid with stone. At Naworth there was
always a strong garrison, for the border was rarely at peace, and

"Stern on the angry confines Naworth rose,
In dark woods islanded; its towers looked forth
And frowned defiance on the angry North."

Here lived, with a host of retainers, the famous "belted Will"--Lord
William Howard, son of the fourth Duke of Norfolk--who in the early part
of the seventeenth century finally brought peace to the border by his
judicious exercise for many years of the Warden's powers. It is of this
famous soldier and chivalrous knight, whose praises are even yet sung in
the borderland, that Scott has written--

"Howard, than whom knight
Was never dubbed more bold in fight,
Nor, when from war and armor free.
More famed for stately courtesy."

[Illustration: VIEW ON TORRENT WALK, DOLGELLY.]

III.

LIVERPOOL, THROUGH THE MIDLAND COUNTIES, TO LONDON.

The Peak of Derbyshire--Castleton--Bess of Hardwicke--Hardwicke
Hall--Bolsover Castle--The Wye and the
Derwent--Buxton--Bakewell--Haddon Hall--The King of the
Peak--Dorothy Vernon--Rowsley--The Peacock Inn--Chatsworth--