nd old mountain, and the remnant of forest
about it, give it an ancient, stately, and dignified look.
OLYMPIA, October 30, 1868.
In crossing from the Columbia River to the Sound, we saw, along the
Cowlitz Valley, marks of the havoc and devastation caused by the floods
of last winter. The wild mountain stream had swept away many familiar
landmarks since we were last there; in fact, had abandoned its bed, and
taken a new channel. It gave us a realizing sense of the fact that great
changes are still in process on our globe. Where we had quietly
slumbered, is now the bed of the stream. We mourned over the little
place at Monticello, where for eight years a nice garden, with rows of
trim currant-bushes, had gladdened the eyes of travellers, and the neat
inn, kept by a cheery old Methodist minister, had given them hospitable
welcome,--not a vestige of the place now remaining. Civilization is so
little advanced in that region, that few men would have the heart or the
means to set out a garden.
IX.
Victoria.--Its Mountain Views, Rocks, and Flowers.--Vancouver's
Admiration of the Island.--San Juan Islands.--Sir James
Douglas.--Indian Wives.--Northern Indians.--Indian
Workmanship.--The Thunder-Bird.--Indian Offerings to the Spirit of
a Child.--Pioneers.--Crows and Sea-Birds.
VICTORIA, B.C., November 15, 1868.
We are to stay for several months in this place. We are delightfully
situated. The house has quite a Christmas look, from the holly and other
bright berries that cluster round the windows. The hall is picturesquely
ornamented with deer's horns and weapons and Indian curiosities. But the
view is what we care most about. On our horizon we have the exquisite
peaks of silver, the summits of the Olympic Range, at the foot of which
we lived in Port Angeles. We look across the blue straits to them.
Immediately in front is an oak grove, and on the other side a great
extent of dark, Indian-looking woods. There are nearer mountains, where
we can see all the beautiful changes of light and shade. Yesterday they
were wrapped in haze, as in the Indian summer, and every thing was soft
and dreamy about them; to-day they stand out bold and clear, with great
wastes of snow, ravines, and landslides, and dark prominences, all
distinctly defined. When the setting sun lights up the summits, new
fields of crystal and gold, and other more distant mountains, appear.
It is very refreshing to get h
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